For the makeup, we created a faux-dirt effect to really give the rougher edge. Instead of using real dirt, I used Ben Nye Plains Dust, which can be applied dry or wet. I used it both ways to get an authentic "dirty" look. Along with the Plains Dust, I did a rough black eyeliner around his eyes, trying to keep away from the smooth lines usually found in beauty makeups. I used a light layer of foundation and concealer to give a clean skin look, and light contouring under the cheekbones.
This was my first time doing anything more than slight corrective makeup on a man. The two biggest challenges were: 1 - Avoiding a "beauty" makeup, or feminizing the face. We wanted to model to remain absolutely male, which is why I made sure to have a rougher eyeliner, and kept the contouring in a stronger line to emphasize the more masculine lines of the face.
2 - Working around the stubble. We wanted to keep the model's five o'clock shadow as it helped keep the look rough and edgy, but it meant I was a little more limited in concealing any redness in those areas and any contouring I may have wanted to do. However the darkness of the stubble does tend to counteract any red areas that may occur, acting as a natural concealer.
I hope to be able to do more male makeups in the future, as I find it an excellent way to change things up from the typical beauty makeup! Keep checking back for the other half of this shoot, featuring the "Biker Chic" look!
Jordan Jeffrey is a Canadian makeup artist who believes everything that can be conceived of can be created. She can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org or jojeffrey.blogspot.com